Still extremely WIP, but I'm overall pretty happy with my first attempt as a face. I'll be doing some sanding and adding a bit more mass (that chin needs a bit of work) while also building out the rest of the head, but all things considered it's rather better than I thought I'd do on my first try.
Commnet/criticisms/suggestions welcome!
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2787_zpsn22hhozb.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2787_zpsn22hhozb.jpg.html)
Proportionally, it's good and that's absolutely the most important thing in making a head look right. I can't comment on whether it's good from other angles (obviously), but of what I can see the height to width looks right, the eyes are halfway up, the size of nose and mouth is they should be and they're positioned well.
There is a little wonkiness, but human faces do that (if you actually look, people's faces just don't quite line up - and in the rare cases they do, it's usually a bit unnerving in the same sort of way as the "uncanny valley"), and the eyes would benefit from being better defined (from about 28mm scale up, you'd normally want to make out some actual details rather than just the shape of the eye sockets), but overall it's a very solid first attempt.
So some updates. I may have screwed things up a bit by adding and subtracting some bits. FYI, I am definitely bulking out the right-hand side (the character's right) cheek/jaw. Happy w/ the ear and left side mouth scaring. Not totally sold on the right side burns on the head (explaining why there's no ear) but they are growing on me. I attempted a left eye, considering leaving the right as a vacant socket (and possibly using an MIU Range Finder on his shoulder). Also, something looks off about the head. I don't know what it is.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2808_zps5zvfuamn.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2808_zps5zvfuamn.jpg.html)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2811_zps5ud0xjog.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2811_zps5ud0xjog.jpg.html)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2812_zpsxnyo8hrv.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2812_zpsxnyo8hrv.jpg.html)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2813_zpspsgmq2rr.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2813_zpspsgmq2rr.jpg.html)
Also, gotta close with a teaser :) ...
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2814_zpsbvj4sgtq.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2814_zpsbvj4sgtq.jpg.html)
The head is looking great mate! It looks a little 'off' but when you even out his right side to match the left it should be fine :)
Ah, silicone in some Lego. This is my life right now.
'S an odd colour though; What silicone did you use?
Also knockoff lego! :o
QuoteAh, silicone in some Lego. This is my life right now.
- ditto that!
Quote from: greenstuff_gav on February 12, 2016, 09:37:06 AM
'S an odd colour though; What silicone did you use?
Also knockoff lego! :o
I used Smooth On (the site is here: http://www.smooth-on.com/Sculpture-and-Art-/c1239/index.html). I put the second stage silicon in a couple hours ago so I can tell you how it turns out tomorrow, but so far I'll say that stage one was impressive. The stuff was quite sturdy, I feel as though I'm going to get good quality out of it. It was a little pricey though, so we'll see how far it actually goes.
I got a few new pics. I think I may need one more attempt at bulking out the right cheek, but he's closer! I also used a small file to rub away at the left eye and it's looking a bit better, though it'll be hard to tell until it's painted. As an aside, who here uses a set of those magnifying glass glasses things? I don't know whether they're worth it (the military and science surplus store near me has a $9 pair so it wouldn't set me back much, unless others feel that more expensive ones are worth the price).
Anyway, a preview of the legs and torso that I'm roughing out. I did basic shapes and I'm now adding musculature/armor-ature that will serve as a base/be sanded down soon. Overall this project is exciting, I'm moving far quicker than anticipated!
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2815_zpsck25a4vg.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2815_zpsck25a4vg.jpg.html)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2816_zps2rf3bcnd.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2816_zps2rf3bcnd.jpg.html)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2817_zpsgi3llqjq.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2817_zpsgi3llqjq.jpg.html)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2819_zps3bv2rgh3.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2819_zps3bv2rgh3.jpg.html)
Double post warning (it keeps up my motivation).
First, it took three tries but I was able to get some heads out that are serviceable. Unfortunately it appears the mold has an air bubble by the left eye of my skull-masked individual, but other than that they're pretty solid. This was mostly an experiment to see how difficult creating a cast would be and the answer is not very! I will throw out a thank you to Thanatos for posting in the other thread about the dangers of casting without proper ventilation. It's a good reminder that sometimes it's worth the extra cash to stay healthy in the long run.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2824_zpsvcqxsuyc.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2824_zpsvcqxsuyc.jpg.html)
Also, some updates on the torso. The broad strokes of the powered carapace armor are coming together nicely and I'm happy so far with the beginning of the fur "cape" on the back.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2828_zpsy8jflcji.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2828_zpsy8jflcji.jpg.html)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2830_zpsff1iieui.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2830_zpsff1iieui.jpg.html)
Also, I need input on two things!
Not sure what to do about his close combat weapon. I was thinking of giving him a big machete-like knife (counts as short sword) but I also liked the idea of him carrying a big, brutal looking sword that was forged from the armor of the rhino from the Carthage Massacre (there was a rhino in that story, right?). It would like almost like a shorn piece of metal that was worked over into a blade. It'd be a basic sword, possibly with some fun rules based on its origins. The point here is just aesthetic though, should I go with a more compact military looking thing or a big brutal/non-traditional sword?
Second, is there any Carthax-specific iconography for IG regiments? Or is there a notable numeric regiment/force of some kind? I'd like to do something on the right shoulder-pad that is uniquely Carthaxian but I just don't know about the sector. It isn't mandatory at all and I may just make something up (or pic a standard IG symbol, or leave it flat for others to play around with). Thoughts?
For armaments I was thinking of giving him a las-rifle slung across his back (somehow, not sure how to fit it in at the moment) and a two-shot bolt revolver as his "side-arm" with an olde-timey hex barrel. It's a fancy piece of kit, but as he's a Carthage survivor who was later given the opportunity to serve as a warrior for the Inquisition I figure there's plenty of opportunity for him to pick something like that up.
So I had a nice long post written yesterday and apparently I just hit "Preview" rather than post. Arg. Anyway, I'm at the point where the basic outline (sans arms) of the mini is basically good to go and I'll just be gradually adding detail. Let me know if anyone sees any egregious scaling issues (just know that I'll be bulking out the waist/midtorso area with armored plates and the shin guards haven't been put on yet). Also, it's fair to say that any uneven or bumpy surface will either be getting a fresh coat of GS or significant sanding/cutting to add detail.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2856_zpsm0omh33s.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2856_zpsm0omh33s.jpg.html)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2858_zpsrwrucxxf.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2858_zpsrwrucxxf.jpg.html)
He's coming along very nicely indeed! What's his pose going to end up looking like? How are his arms going to be posed or are you going to do them separate? Liking the chest piece as well by the way. He looks like he's going to be pretty armoured up, will you be doing a helmet for him as well?
Seeing that Chaos Magos just reminded me I need one! *Adds to the shopping list*
Quote from: Lord Borak on February 22, 2016, 10:10:32 PM
He's coming along very nicely indeed! What's his pose going to end up looking like? How are his arms going to be posed or are you going to do them separate? Liking the chest piece as well by the way. He looks like he's going to be pretty armoured up, will you be doing a helmet for him as well?
Thanks! I'm thinking of doing two sets of arms, one with his lasrifle held across the midsection, another holding a knife in the left hand and something else in the right. I am planning on doing legs and torso separately to allow for maximum conversion, though there may be a cloakish piece added that could complicate things. We'll see how it goes.
On the helmet end, I am working on a alternate head which I'm actually really, really excited about. Hopefully I'll do some more sculpting this weekend and get out some pics :)
Ah cool. Multipart models would be awesome. Although having the Legs/Torso as one part would make your life as a casting a lot more simpler and save mould space. If someone is desperate to move his legs/Torso then it's not hard to cut resin up to repose. I know I'd be happy with a one part model.
Oh cool. Looking forward to seeing the helmet.
Looking great!
with regards to sculpting, I am really just venturing into this field - any tips on how to get the best out of greenstuff?
do you sculpt whist it is very malleable? when it has cured, and "carve" it? or somewhere in between?
Baked putties with no working time are my new favorite, easy to carve and sculpt with as very firm like chavant clay for minis. 6 euro and you wont look back ;)
http://beesputty.com/index.php/beesputty-plastic/bppfsgrey.html
Quote from: seaglen on February 26, 2016, 03:14:15 PM
with regards to sculpting, I am really just venturing into this field - any tips on how to get the best out of greenstuff?
do you sculpt whist it is very malleable? when it has cured, and "carve" it? or somewhere in between?
So this advice is going to be aggravating, but it's the same advice I was given years ago. You just have to kind of play around with it. The more you practice the better you'll get. Putty behaves in strange ways.
On the more productive front, I'd also urge you to try out new tools or even make your own. I have what amounts to different sized spheres on the ends of sticks that I use for a lot of stuff. Often times I'm just using the tube section as a roller. I'm also a big fan of using an exacto knife to make fine indentations when I need them (straight edges on straps, texture in hair, etc). A plain old GW tool actually isn't bad either, I often times find myself defaulting to that when spreading on a big goober of GS. Also, a pair of fine clippers is great for doing hair, fire, fur, or any number of things.
I'll also say that letting GS totally hard then cutting or sanding it is totally acceptable, and sometimes it's the best way to get hard edges or smooth surfaces. Rather than driving yourself crazy while it's malleable, just slap a little extra on then go to town when it's done.
Finally, if you're doing robes or things like that don't be afraid to flatten a sheet of GS, wait 45 minutes, then cut out the shape you want and then drape it over whatever you're doing. That advice carries over to straps and other clothing items.
Again, just play around, have fun, and prize educating yourself over frugality when it comes to GS.
Quote from: Thantos on February 27, 2016, 02:10:07 PM
Baked putties with no working time are my new favorite, easy to carve and sculpt with as very firm like chavant clay for minis. 6 euro and you wont look back ;)
http://beesputty.com/index.php/beesputty-plastic/bppfsgrey.html
I'd love to see some examples, and also some specifics on temperature, cooking duration, etc. What's your process like and what does the final product end up looking like?
Quote from: seaglen on February 26, 2016, 03:14:15 PMwith regards to sculpting, I am really just venturing into this field - any tips on how to get the best out of greenstuff?
do you sculpt whist it is very malleable? when it has cured, and "carve" it? or somewhere in between?
This is sort of taking over Alyster's thread, but...
- If you get it in the two colour strip always always always cut out the join between the two colours before mixing. This area has already started to harden and will give you lumpy green stuff if you leave it in the mix.
- Store your supply in a dry location, as it absorbs moisture and hardens, making it more difficult to work with. The best place, possibly counter-intuitively, is often the freezer (all the water in a freezer is ice and thus can't be absorbed), although an air-tight bag with some of those Silica gel sachets you always get with new shoes is also viable.
- Its working qualities change as it cures. It's very soft and sticky immediately after mixing, then gets stiffer and drier over the next 2-3 hours. Each has its own uses - soft and sticky is good for getting it in place and into a rough shape, but it's also too floppy to sculpt any detail into (every time you poke it with a tool, the entire surrounding area warps). If you find it's too soft to sculpt sharp detail into (or you can't smooth areas without the entire thing collapsing), you may want to try waiting 15-30 minutes before continuing.
- It's generally not a good idea to work in large blobs of green stuff. It's best to have a proper frame to work on. Sometimes this will be an existing part of a model (e.g. if you're filling gaps or sculpting new surface detail), but otherwise you'll want to build a skeleton for your sculpting. I normally use brass wire as the armature, then bulk out the underlying shapes onto that with a first stage of green stuff (or sometimes two or three, depending on what I'm doing). I can then sculpt on the surface details onto this. Remember, the underlying bulk needs to be smaller than the final result, and let it properly cure first.
- Don't tackle too much at once. Sometimes you'll need to build up a section in layers (see above), sometimes there's too much to tackle all in one go (the usual consequence of this is putting your thumb in work you've just done). Planning this out for a more complex sculpt can take a bit of practice, but it is possible.
- Sometimes, it's better to use a scalpel to cut details into cured putty than try to sculpt them conventionally. If I'm trying to do areas with hard edges (e.g. an armour plate), I'll usually sculpt the overall shape a little large, then cut it back for nice sharp corners once it's set.
- A smooth finish helps results look good, particularly if you want to use any washes on the area (which will exaggerate any flaws). I can recommend rubber-tipped clay shapers for this (although they're not the cheapest tool going), but steel tools can be used quite effectively once the putty is nearly hard.
What's also pretty darn good is a paintbrush. Damp it down, then brush it reasonably firmly over the area (you want to be pressing down to the base of the bristles, not just using the tip - so use an old or cheap brush, not your best modelling ones, because it's fairly harsh on the brush).
- Less is often more. You'll often find people filling gaps with too much green stuff (leading the area to bulge), sculpting hands/heads too large, doing really bold and exaggerated details and the like. Generally, people are more likely to sculpt something too large than too small.
~~~~~
I'd also add that learning how to use green stuff is one thing, but learning how to sculpt is another. Any form of art takes learning accurate observation. Normally, our sensory input is processed automatically/subconsciously into a very heavily summarised version that reaches our conscious minds. Our conscious mind doesn't normally need to know the specifics of what any given person looks like, just who that is, so our subconscious mind does the job of recognising his face and just tells our conscious mind. "Yeah, that's Bob, trust me".
This summarisation is great for avoiding overwhelming our conscious minds with information, but means we only often don't really consciously know what Bob looks like even when we're actually looking at him!
There are some shortcuts, such as there being basic rules of human proportion (which I very much recommend learning), but when it comes to copying the curves of someone's face, it does take learning how to see past this mental filter.Quote from: Thantos on February 27, 2016, 02:10:07 PM
Baked putties with no working time are my new favorite, easy to carve and sculpt with as very firm like chavant clay for minis. 6 euro and you wont look back ;)
http://beesputty.com/index.php/beesputty-plastic/bppfsgrey.html
My general recommendation with putties is to try lots, use few. Ideally, You want to learn your materials as well as possible - swapping between four putties in your sculpting rather than just two means you're half as experienced with each of them.
Personally, I like the working time on green stuff, as the ways in which its qualities change as it cures can be very useful. It's one of those things where there's advantages and disadvantages to it both ways.
Progress has been slow but I have a little bit to share in the alternate-head department.
After surviving the Carthage Massacre this character spent some time in the service of the Ordos Xenos, fighting some of the most dangerous horrors of the enemy without. He kept some trophies from that time, one of which takes the form of a skull secured as a visor over his helmet. I will give a cookie to anyone who can identify what 40K species he took the skull from (I will also give myself a cookie for sculpting it well enough to be recognizable if someone is able to identify it). It does have some battle damage so you're seeing some of the helmet (rebreather specifically) underneath the broken areas of skull.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2912%202_zps4gd6smrb.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2912%202_zps4gd6smrb.jpg.html)
And another angle:
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2913%202_zpstda5gbny.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2913%202_zpstda5gbny.jpg.html)
Lastly, I've been playing around w/ sculpting random stuff when I end up with extra GS. One of those mini-projects is a mutant head which I'll probably throw on the sprue along with a planned 3 heads specifically for the Warrior (his bare head, the Xenos mask, and a more traditional helm). Suggestions are welcome, but I'm pretty happy with this guy so far for what he is.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2918%202_zps2h20ps9o.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2918%202_zps2h20ps9o.jpg.html)
Hrud?
Either way. Looking great!! Hopefully all those little details cast up well.
I am guessing it is the lycramole from the =][= rulebook.
Nice looking sculpt.
Marc/blacknight
Thanks for the kind words! Not a lot to show today, but I did get some drudgerous sculpting done. I've joined the torso and legs just for sculpting purposes (to make sure that everything is in proportion) but I may separate them for casting. Over the next week or so I'll probably post something to get final feedback on proportions before I really get into the big stuff.
Quote from: blacknight on March 06, 2016, 03:25:06 AM
I am guessing it is the lycramole from the =][= rulebook.
Indeed it is! Looking closer, the mandible claw thing is supposed to be up further on the face (actually obscuring the smaller set of teeth I have sculpted at the moment). I'm debating moving it back up.
Quote from: Lord Borak on March 05, 2016, 10:45:31 PM
Hrud?
I believe the Hrud decompose at an incredibly rapid rate after they die, so a Hrud trophy wouldn't work.
Okay, so here's the full "skeleton".
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2921_zpslk1b9o8f.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2921_zpslk1b9o8f.jpg.html)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2922_zpsencpb0bx.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2922_zpsencpb0bx.jpg.html)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx83/alysterwick/IMG_2923_zps0coacuva.jpg) (http://s744.photobucket.com/user/alysterwick/media/IMG_2923_zps0coacuva.jpg.html)
The left arm will be mostly bionic, but may look "bare" otherwise. There's a bit of plasticard standing in for a hand right now. Whether I sculpt over it or removes it entirely will be a gametime decision. The right arm may appear higher right now but that's just the anticipation of asymmetric shoulder pads (the actual shoulder and elbow joints should line up). He'll be holding a blade of some kind upside down (in a downward stabby pose) with the left arm and a rifle in the right (the wire is extended past where the arm will go just to give me a feel for the full sweep of the model).
All that aside, something looks amiss in the leg department. I think height-wise he is good and the distribution of height between the head, torso, and legs (as three regions) is correct. However, within the leg department I think the upper legs may look (or appear) to start too late, and I'm not sure if this impacts the height of the knees. I think this problem may have arisen when I carved out some hollow space for banded armor in between the plates. As such, I may sculpt some banded plates over the joint to give the appearance that the legs start sooner. I did remove one of the knee pads because it didn't line up with the shin.
Other than that, looking good? Legs too far apart? Any ratios totally off? I'd like to think that once I get the leg issue sorted out that I'll totally be in tinker/detail mode (other than the arms). The waist also certainly needs work. And let me know if the "eagle" looks a little too "bat-wing." I don't want anyone mistaking him for a Night Lord...