First attempt at sculpting

[Caralinus]

(Head length of 11.1 inches, is what I should have put above not mil  )

The way I calculate lengths is to take the size range, 54mm say, as representing an average height of 5'9". so 69" devided by 54mm gives a ratio of 1.277777778 (put more 7's in and you get a more accurate figure) inches per mm. Then you work out heights, lengths et cetera from there.

Anyway, enough drivel from me.


I have seen people use puree tubes to make coats and capes and whatnot but they don't always get creases and fodls into it that look realistic. Of course you could use the tube as a basic frame onto which to sculpt folds.

One idea I had but haven't used yet is to make a wore frame lattice and then fill it in. This would use fine wire and I get mine from those bag ties you can get, strip the paper or plastic off and that eaves a very fine wire and you can use that to make an armature for a coat or whatever and then put a think layer of putty over it.

At the moment I'm still working on a Great Coat (bottom half and a sleave need to be done) for an ork. I haven't done much on him for months but I used an old leather wallet to make his coat. I've got a leather jacket so I looked at that to make paper templates of the various panels and then cut that out of the leater which had to be stitiched together. Once it's complete I'm going  to give it a wash of watered down PVA glue to make it stiff for painting.

If you look at Games Workshop#s robes and tabards, or the trench coats that Delaque gangers wear, they are sculpted very thick so I imagine they use a similar technique to the puree tube covered in putty. I suppose that's necessary when they model is to be cast but on a self sculpt you can try and make it more fine and more realistic. You could always try thin cloth of an old shirt or something; my idea there was to make a wire frame, sticth together sections of the coat say, and then dip that in watered down PVA glue, drape and press into the frame and let it go hard so you have the thin, fine look of a real coat and with texture. Then you have to finish of some sticthing on the model but it doesn't take long.

[MarcoSkoll]

I don't know about heads

Well, I always work by it - work out the model's overall height, then divide by 7.5 for the head "height" and use that to scale by. It's a useful enough measurement. The reason I use it is because I use it for my drawing, where I've never got a guaranteed scale to work by.

54mm say, as representing an average height of 5'9".

54mm to the EYE. Most models are more like 57 or 58mm stood straight. (Consequently, I use a scale of about 1/30 or 1/31)

I have seen people use puree tubes to make coats and capes and whatnot but they don't always get creases and fodls into it that look realistic.

I've tried purée tubes and I really don't like it. Personally, I use thinly rolled putty, but give it a wire frame to hold the edges in place (which is why the coats of my models usually have trim that hides the wire frame)

[Caralinus]

54mm to the EYE.

Well that's a point of contention isn't it. Some people do measure to eye level as a matter of practicality as you can usually see a model's eyes but not always the top of the head. I don't, preferring to scale based on total heights rather than to a certain level but like I say that's just my way of doing it.

[Shannow]

Thanks for the help guys, having a lack of both puree tubes and fine wine, I just tried to make it hug a lot and be quite fine. I will get some pictures up tomorrow hopefully with a gun as well.

Thanks again

Rob

[Caralinus]

Look forward to seeing the progress.

[Alyster Wick]

In terms of his coat, do you have any good tips on getting it fitting/flowing well? I seem to remember somebody saying they used a tomato puree tube as a template or something...

I'm going to second Marco's suggestion, I was incredibly intimidated at the prospect of doing robes entirely with putty but it's far easier than it appears.  Just eyeball the amount of putty you'll use and roll it out in between two pieces of wax paper.  Then cut out the shape you like (I generally cut the shape out of more wax paper after approximating what I want it to look like over the model and use that as a guide).  After it cures for 30-45 minutes unpeel the section and carefully lay it over the frame you want.  Don't go crazy trying to make creases that don't come naturally, you can always add more detail later.

[Shannow]

More updates with arm and coat....I'm fairly happy considering it's my first attempt at arms and coat but wasn't confident enough to do something interesting with the arms.

http://s916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/jerusalem-man/?action=view&current=Photoon2010-06-11at06352.jpg

http://s916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/jerusalem-man/?action=view&current=Photoon2010-06-11at06355.jpg

http://s916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/jerusalem-man/?action=view&current=Photoon2010-06-11at06353.jpg

http://s916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/jerusalem-man/?action=view&current=Photoon2010-06-11at0635.jpg

I do plan on some cuffs at the end of the sleeves.

On a side note, how well do 40k hands fit Inquisitor?

Rob

[Aidan]

Pretty good work on the coat so far. Having it hug the figure is a good idea to start with. If you ever plan to have more free- hanging cloaks etc, I would second  Alyster Wick's suggestion with the wax paper. It really quite easy. Also, I really like that tail (as bizarre as it is).

On a side note, how well do 40k hands fit Inquisitor?

Not very well, I'm afraid. Okay, it depends. I find that Ork arms are great for muscular character in 54mm, and the hands are okay too (though large). Human hands, though, are generally too small, though I have used a space marine forearm/hand for a bionic piece on one character. Using larger 40k hands (for example, I have a heap of 2nd-edition chaos space marine hands) as templates to sculpt over can be helpful if you're not too confident, though.

-Aidan.

[Caralinus]

Looking really good.

On the hand front it depends what look you're going for. If you want to keep the heroicly sized hands of other Inquisitor models then they will be too small but if you want properly sized hands then they will work okay; if you find my thread with the Penal Legionnaire then you can see how Catachan hands look.

[Shannow]

Thank you one and all! Great advice all round again which is very appreciated.

With regards hands I'm having a go at sculpting them, which is on to guns as a solid base, at the time of typing I'm waiting for the first attempt to dry, just need to extend trigger finger a little.

Having said that I am building up a desired bits box order which will now include some catachan arms as I think they looked reet good from what you did Kallidor

Have also added cuffs (in a rather piratesque fashion) to generally add to the odd look.

Finally any general tips for feet and heads, the two final and most feared things I have to do? I would quite like to include a wide brimmed hat or some such thing that shadows the upper half of his face if anyone has any specific advice.

Oh yes and also he will be dual wielding pistols but want to give him a rapier. I was thinking on using the point from a paper clip...good/bad idea?

Sorry for the ramble you very helpful lot! I should hopefully get pictures up this evening after the footy

Rob

[Caralinus]

which will now include some catachan arms

Just to make sure, I've only used Catachan hands, the arm itself is too short but with a little lengthening they'd serve as a great base to sculpt on.

Finally any general tips for feet and heads, the two final and most feared things I have to do? I would quite like to include a wide brimmed hat or some such thing that shadows the upper half of his face if anyone has any specific advice.

The way I make boots is to use a picture of the sole of a pair of Docs, shrunk down on Paint to act as a template to get some proper boot shaped boots.

As for hats, I've only ever done one and in hindsight I think I would have used plasticard (which I wasn't using then as I didn't know where to get it) to make the brim. File the head bald, and cut a hole in the brim (you could use a compass to get a really circular brim) and fit that over the head. Use putty to make the top of the hat or you could make a cone using Green Stuff and use that as a base to put putty over the top, might help get an nice even look.

Oh yes and also he will be dual wielding pistols but want to give him a rapier. I was thinking on using the point from a paper clip...good/bad idea?

It might be better for a foil as rapier usually have a tapered flat blade. If you don't have any yet I strongly recommend a trip to your local Hobby Craft, which should stock Evergreen plasticard. You can get a bag of strips of plasticard at various sizes; 2mil by 1mil perhaps? Then carfeully shave one edge (the 1mil edge) down to get a taper and the shave the flat 2mil surface both sides to get a really sharp looking rapier.

Then you can end up with something like this:

[Shannow]

First off, that is a fantastic conversion and model Kallidor, the sword is very nice. However I did actually mean foil and also safety pin not paper clip (I was just having a lazy brain moment I think ), but still I plan to go to get some of the small plasticard today and have a bash at making some stock weapons.

How did you make the hilt on the rapier?

In terms of progress he now has a head and his left hand resplendent with gun!

http://s916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/jerusalem-man/?action=view&current=Photoon2010-06-12at1017.jpg

http://s916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/jerusalem-man/?action=view&current=Photoon2010-06-12at1018.jpg

http://s916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/jerusalem-man/?action=view&current=Photoon2010-06-12at10182.jpg

The head generally went TERRIBLE! This has led to him having bionic eyes and a bandana around his mouth like an old school hijacker this thankfully hides all my hideous handy work and the hat will fit in nicely when I manage it.

In terms of background, due to the bandana I think I will make him a disgraced glavian pilot turned pirate? Any thoughts?

Rob

[Myriad]

I like how this guy is developing.  The head does look a bit odd, but it does give him a nice individual look, kinda post apocalyptic steampunk  .

[Shannow]

Glad you like him Myriad, I'm looking forward to starting my next one with this experience under my belt, which will be pretty much straight after as I have lots of material left but can't really afford paint yet

Having said that I think I rushed his left hand so have taken that off but have a few pics of him with his hat 'Mark-1' subject to change depending on what you guys have to say!

http://s916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/jerusalem-man/?action=view&current=Photoon2010-06-12at1315.jpg

http://s916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/jerusalem-man/?action=view&current=Photoon2010-06-12at13142.jpg

http://s916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/jerusalem-man/?action=view&current=Photoon2010-06-12at1314.jpg

Having just measured him with the hat on, he is looking to be pretty tall  not sure how much of a problem that will be in gameplay terms. I have to lengthen his calfs as they look odd and I reckon when all said and done he will be 62-64mm high. Would that be an acceptable playing height?

Off out for some super glue now!

Rob

[Brother_Brimstone]

Very nice; i'm rather jealous as I myself am somewhat...unskilled at sculpting. I tried a self sculpt a while ago and... yeah, let's not mention that. Still, you seem to have jumped into it and i think it's shaping up nicely. Should make for a very cool and unique miniature.